I have had a combi boiler installed but the plumber would not remove the old back boiler.
He advised me to remove it myself as he had decommissioned it completely.
The reason I want to fill in the gap is, I want to fix an electric fire to the wall.
In answer to DIY DOC, it is a house brick wall in the UK.
This is called a chimney ****** here.
The Combi boiler is installed in the utility room which is nowhere near the fireplace.

My boiler show the fault code f.24 on screen?!?!?!?! its been giving no hot water. Checked the manual it says that either theres air in the system or theres a pump fault.

what should i do? please help

brighton boiler repair

I have a fault code reading of 11 which equals to camshaft sensor.

brighton plumbing

Two weeks ago, plumbers removed a toilet to replace a main line in the wall behind. I need to remove the toilet to repair/paint the drywall. Once I go to replace the toilet, will I need to put a new wax ring or will the two-week-old one that the plumbers used be good enough? Thank you

Our kitchen sink’s sprayer has a small puncture in its plastic hose.

Normally that would be an easy repair, but this is an extra deep sink that was installed extra close to the wall, so there is hardly any room to work where the hose is attached, and the attachment is way up behind the sink.

A plumber told us he’d have to remove the whole sink to replace the hose. Rather than pay for that, I tried wrapping the hose with silicon tape, then wrapping that with electrical tape. That held for a while but now it has sprung a leak.

Any suggestions on repairing that plastic hose without replacing it?

Thanks,

Greg
Thanks for the helpful answers. It’s hard to pick a best answer.

You’re all going to think I’m crazy, and you may be right, but I GLUED it with this flexible, dishwasher-safe glue:

Loctite Household Repair:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=17&subid=245&plid=880

It’s been several days and it’s had much testing, including with hot water, and so far it’s holding perfectly — dry as a bone. Of course, just like the tape repair, it could hold for a while and then spring a leak.

If it does, next step is the splice. If splicing doesn’t work out, then I’ll find a plumber who has a basin wrench.

In any case, I’m confident I won’t have to pay to have the sink removed.

Bandett:

The counter is definately complex. It’s in an L shape, and the other side of the L is boxed in by a wall. If we tried to move the counter parallel to that wall, the sink would run into the dishwasher, which we’ve also been told would not be trivial to remove.